I'm not quite sure what this solder packaging is trying to tell me, but apparently soldering with it is super relaxing.

@fribbledom careful with that lead.

I'm curious, why do solder wires still have lead considering the health hasards?


@pyrho @fribbledom

nowadays you can get both types.

Working with old (leaded) stuff can be easier/more reliable for hobby projects, repair of old equipment and critical systems (telecoms, railway signals, industrial control) to the point you are still allowed to use it in Europe for commercial equipment in these applications).

Lead free solder needs higher bit temperature and can be harder to work with (my experience anyway)

If you are not working in a factory the risks aren't that bad.

@vfrmedia @fribbledom Thanks for the info, I'm gathering stuff to solder a DIY keyboard and saw ppl recommending using lead wires, but was a bit worried so I got a lead free one.. Hope I didn't make a mistake.

@pyrho @fribbledom

I personally always use the old 60/40 leaded stuff, but that is because I am a bit older and am used to it 😉

You should if possible use a decent temperature controlled iron too (they are not as expensive as they used to be!) and its discouraged to mix up bits that have been used for leaded and lead free solder.

If you are new to soldering I'd suggest practicing on some less important circuits/components first and seeing what you get on best with..

@vfrmedia @fribbledom I'm pretty newb, but I did manage to build a pocket amplifier to drive my Grado SR80i a few years back.

I guess I'll fool around first before melting valuable components ^^

@vfrmedia @fribbledom @elomatreb here’s a sneak peek at the keyboard, a gErgo kit. Courtesy of gboards.ca !

@vfrmedia @fribbledom @pyrho Lead-based solder basically works with any hot iron, whereas lead-free solder has very specific temperature ranges depending on the type, so you need a fancier (read: more expensive) soldering iron that can keep an accurate tip temperature to make it work well
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